HOW ARE THEY MADE?



The Process-

 

 

The steps to a custom bag are many, but they all start in my sketch book. Sometimes they are quickly sketched out from a thought and sometimes the sketches develop in the sketch pad.  Many sketches are drawn and modified but very few make it to prototyping.

After a design and sketch are selected, a hand made prototype process is started and that process continues until the design is fully developed and the original design sketch realized in the prototype. At that point if the prototype is selected for production prototyping the sample is digitally scanned and plotted into autocad and converted to software for the CNC carving/magical operation is set to take place.

  • Wood type and selection- These are the first steps in the process of making a bag-  Woods are selected from relatively local suppliers that are gathered from around the world.  Different woods naturally produce grain characteristics and colors that create different visual textures that are selected for specific effects relative to the designs and intended finishes.. Careful attention is given when selecting and laying out precisely where the bags will get cut from the boards getting the most out of the”perfections and imperfections” found in this amazing material. The skyrocketing costs of these select woods require this phase to be extremely carefully considered.

  • Blank milling and matching- After selection the rough lumber is received in the shop looking like the natural wood clutch stands you see in “ From Nature”.  They are milled into matched blanks to pre determined sizes for the craving process on the 5 axis CNC machines. Final adjustment can be made at this time for better yield or selection purposes. that decision is in the hands of maker at that moment.

  • 5 Axis CNC carving- 5 Axis refers to the ability of a machine of this complexity to literally carve sculptures of an astonishing variety. The pre sized blanks are set on the vacuum tables of the CNC machine in specially designed fixtures and jigs to hold the blanks steady, along with the vacuum pressure for the milling/carving operation. The 5 axis machines, as opposed to more traditional 3 axis, allows the compound curves so prominent in these designs to be achieved. The accuracy of these machines is measured in the thousandths of an inch also allowing the mortising for the hinges, clasps and leather detailing to be achieved to startling degrees of accuracy, so critical with this project.

  • Cleanup- Hinging, sanding, final shaping- This is the ultimate hand finess part of the project. The bags are first pre sanded and then hinged with temporary hinges only used during the cleanup process. With the bags hinged the final shapes can be trued and sanded to a near polished state being sure to remove all scratches to allow for ultimate finishes. This is the most meticulous part of thee process prior to finishing.

  • Finish and Polishing- This is another very artistic part of the process. This process starts in the design/drawing phase. As a bag develops in design certain woods, finishes and techniques become evident, I like to think as just the right lyrics work with just the right music. Sometimes finishes develop first and the right bag must be found for particular finishes is seen in one context and transposed to The skill of the finisher is most critical in producing these startling looks and finishes. Aniline dyes are strictly used because of their ability to not mask the woods like pigmented stains do. Aniline stains make the grain explode on these undulating figured surfaces creating the fabric like textures, and fashionable dyed and natural colors. Top coats, as the outer finish is called can vary from the “ No Finish, Finish” look so popular today in design to the highly polished magnifying finishes of the catalyzed urethane and polyester finished used. While all finishes are relatively delicate in some ways , the highly specialized finishes used offer excellent water and oil protection and are as scratch resistant as the industry has to offer. With proper care and handling these finishes are designed to last a lifetime

  • Final setup for the woodwork- After the finishing is complete the finished parts are re-hinged with the final custom hinges. These hinges with there proprietary design allows for an unusual feature in that the barrel of the hinge can be slightly recessed to prevent catching of the hinges on someones clothing or skin, a necessary precaution. These beautiful but pricey hinges add another critical refinement to the bags.

  • Leather Interiors and accessories- The leather interiors are another one of the crowning achievement of these bags. The combination of a great setup in the milling and an amazing leather worker provide an extraordinary, gorgeous interior. The real genius in the leather work is in the sample makers eye and ability to connect with clean simple incredible design and work. The undercut rabbet that conceals the edge of the leather is another innovation in design for the bags. After the leather prototype sample bag is approved dyes are made for the hydraulic cutter and production begins. After the interior pouches are cut and fabricated they are installed in the bag. This type of fabrication of the leather using the dyes is only possible because of the deadly accuracy of the CNC milling operation making all interiors identical to within thousandths of an inch.

  • Final Inspection and claps installation- After the leather work is complete and a Clutch Cover protective carry case is also assigned to the bag, it gets the clasp installed and a final inspection. All aspects of the bag are reviewed before the bag is allowed to be sold. While nothing is perfect, it is always something to strive for